An itinerary of the spirit and of beauty in the green heart of Italy

The landscape of Umbria, with the green of its woods dotted with hermitages, convents and medieval villages, formed the backdrop to the life of one of the most fascinating and most beloved figures in the history of Italy: Saint Francis of Assisi. The memory of his message of love for nature and for all creatures has remained impressed upon the places where the most significant episodes of the life of the Poverello took place.
More and more people are shouldering a backpack and facing considerable effort and distance to set out on the "walk". But why? The answer varies from person to person, yet it is something that is born in the heart and that tests both body and soul. An invitation to travel and to slowness. Roads and paths as ways of escape and of balance, through the reading of landscapes, amid culture, nature and human relationships. Where the civilisation of the sacred developed far from the madding crowd and from haste. To come to know the Umbria that enchants, that restores.
Whatever the motivations, every walk offers the pilgrim and the wayfarer original answers and perspectives, because it possesses an authentic and intrinsic identity. The soul of the Way of Francis is bound indissolubly to the person of the Saint of Assisi: to walk in the lands where he lived means to measure oneself, step after step, against his vision of life. The Canticle of the Creatures, the masterpiece of thirteenth-century Italian literature, becomes the manifesto of this route: in it those who walk can measure themselves against the vision of love of Francis of Assisi for all creatures and at the same time live an authentic journey, since it is lived in the first person.
The route begins from the panoramic square of the Quadrante at the Sanctuary of La Verna, for those setting out from the north, or from the Sanctuary of Greccio, for those setting out from the south; the rule always holds that it is the walkers who make the walk, and each may follow the direction that suits them best and choose the stages they wish to cover.

The northern Way of Francis – From La Verna to Assisi

Immersed in the silence of the Casentino Forests, set on a rocky spur full of clefts and hollows in which Francis often used to withdraw to meditate, La Verna is one of the holiest and most moving places along the whole Way. To set out from this place is a way of giving body and soul the time to attune themselves to the atmosphere of the walk. Besides the relics of Francis and the chapel where Francis received the stigmata, the place preserves a wonderful collection of works by the Della Robbia, which alone would be worth a visit. The walk proceeds first through Tuscany, touching the hermitage of Cerbaiolo near Pieve Santo Stefano and then Sansepolcro, a crossroads of the ancient routes towards Rome, a treasure chest of Renaissance masterpieces and home to the Aboca Museum, founded with the aim of recovering the tradition of the use of medicinal plants. Along the Way a stop is recommended at the Hermitage of Montecasale, where the spell of Franciscan simplicity is renewed each day by the presence of the modern brothers of Francis. After a level stretch, the landscape becomes hilly until it reaches Citerna, one of the most beautiful villages in Italy and the first stage of the Way in Umbria. Here the fortress and the unusual medieval walkway, within the walls, bear witness to the warlike times of ages past. One continues across the gentle landscape of the upper valley of the river Tevere as far as Città di Castello. Although the stage presents no difficulty, the walker should not miss the chance to stop at the Franciscan hermitage of Buon Riposo, whose name is bound to the words of Saint Francis who, during his wanderings, would often stop in this place to rest and pray. A visit to Città di Castello takes time, and one might consider devoting a day to discovering its treasures, among them: the Treasure of Canoscio (a set of early Christian silver liturgical ware), the modern art collection of Alberto Burri and the many masterpieces scattered through the historic centre. Leaving the city walls behind, the way enters the woods, with demanding climbs and steeply sloping descents. To comfort the pilgrim there are a few equipped rest areas, offering refreshment and water. After a long and gradual climb one reaches the medieval Pieve de Saddi (for opening times telephone the Diocesan Museum: tel. 075/8554705), no longer inhabited today, where once was kept the "dragon's rib", a mammoth tusk now preserved inside the Diocesan Museum of Città di Castello. After the hard climb, the stage ends at Pietralunga, where one enjoys the peace and the welcome typical of the villages of Umbria, and one can visit the Sanctuary of the Madonna dei Rimedi. From the village one descends and then climbs again gradually, moving into the silence of the Apennine meadows. Before reaching Gubbio one faces a long stretch under the sun, on a surfaced but lightly travelled road. The arrival at Gubbio rewards the effort and the sweat. Having left the backpack down on the plain, the advice is to climb up to the Sanctuary of Sant'Ubaldo (there is also a convenient cable car), where the celebrated "Ceri" are kept, depicted in the coat of arms of the Region and the object of faith and passion not only for the people of Gubbio but for all Umbrians. The experience of discovering the alleys and squares of the city, made famous by the television series "Don Matteo", of making three turns around the Bargello fountain to earn the "madman's licence", of pausing to meditate in the places where Francis passed, are experiences that are already part of the imagery bound to the Way of Francis. Leaving the city one comes upon the small church of the Vittorina, where the episode of the taming of the wolf by Francis took place. From this point, and continuing towards Assisi, begins one of the most significant stretches of the Way. One retraces, in reverse, the first journey as a "pilgrim" made by Francis, after he had stripped himself of all his goods before his father and the bishop (a scene masterfully frescoed by Giotto in the Upper Basilica of Assisi). Along this road, which crosses the shady woods, he proclaimed himself "herald of the Great King" before the brigands who beat him. On this stretch stands the abbey of Vallingegno, where Francis was received with reluctance and set to work as a scullion in the kitchen. Continuing, one comes upon the hermitage of san Pietro in Vigneto, where a hermit, devoted to contemplation, has given his whole life to the recovery of the place and to the making of the Eastern-style frescoes that adorn the entrance (the hermit's choice of asceticism must be respected; anyone wishing to spend a period of retreat in this place should contact the Diocese of Gubbio). The last stop before reaching the tomb of the Poverello is at Valfabbrica. Step after step, from the shade of the woods one returns to the sun that lights the olive groves around Assisi. Suddenly, in the silence, the walker will glimpse in the distance the great mass of the Basilica of San Francesco. In a few kilometres, and crossing the Bosco di San Francesco (restored by the FAI, for visits telephone 075 813157), one faces the last climb and then enters Assisi through Porta San Giacomo, the pilgrims' gate. The majestic mass of the Upper Basilica fills the gaze of those who have come on foot as far as this place. Inside, Giotto's frescoes will be the antechamber to the greater joy one will feel on descending before the rough and humble tomb of the Saint, to pause and meditate on what the walk has taught.

The southern Way of Francis – From Greccio to Assisi

The broad valley of Rieti is known as the "Holy Valley" for the presence of numerous Franciscan sanctuaries, so much so that it became a second homeland for Francis of Assisi. The walk sets out from the Sanctuary of Greccio, which from the outside seems embedded in the rock. The place is the starting point of the walk and of one of the tenderest Christian traditions: the nativity scene. It was here, in the chapel of the Nativity, that in 1223 Francis first had the child's crib prepared for the sacred representation of Christmas. One descends past the imposing Benedictine abbey of San Pastore and then climbs again, on a significant gradient, up to Colle Sant'Elia. One descends again, stopping at the Sanctuary of Fonte Colombo, the ancient Fons Colombarum, where restoration work has brought to light a frescoed Tau, a symbol dearly loved by the Poverello, whose attribution is traced back to Francis himself. The stop is at Rieti, one of the ancient papal seats, and where, in the crypt of the cathedral, Francis would withdraw to pray. One walks with a slow step, touching two important sanctuaries of the Franciscan valley: La Foresta and Poggio Bustone; those who wish to flee "the pomp of the world" find in these convents, secluded amid the greenery, an ideal place. The simplicity and humility of the Franciscan message are reflected in the essential architecture of these places. Taking up again the greeting "Good day, good people", spoken by Francis on his entry into the village, one leaves the town to reach Piediluco. The stage begins with a steep ascent to the Faggio di San Francesco, under whose leafy branches many pilgrims nestle and meditate, as the many devotional objects there bear witness. Once the climb is over the walk becomes easy, and one crosses the small village of Labro. Piediluco welcomes the walker with the great, calm mirror of its lake, immortalised by the artists of the Grand Tour. One walks constantly in the company of Sister Water, "multo humile, pretiosa et casta" as Francis celebrated it in the Canticle. Along the lake, then beside the river Velino, whose waters create the sublime spectacle of the Cascate delle Marmore, until one climbs along the shady currents of the river Nera. From Arrone one proceeds towards Ceselli comfortably on the level along the narrow valley of the Nera. High above rise the towers and the hillside castles, as if to follow and watch over the step of the pilgrims, and today also of the many sportsmen who practise rafting and climbing in this valley. The stage that leads to Spoleto is marked by a demanding climb, and crossing the Valico di Castel Monte, from the narrow Valle del Nera one enters the broad Spoleto valley, whose beauty Francis extolled, exclaiming: "Nihil iucundius vidi valle mea spoletana". One crosses the Bosco Sacro di Monteluco, where in the shade of the age-old holm oaks lie hidden the many hermitages of Syrian origin. From Monteluco, crossing the Ponte delle Torri, there opens before the walker, almost like a theatrical backdrop, the magnificent facade of the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta. It was in these very places that the celebrated episode of the "Dream" took place, where a voice asked Francis, still an aspiring knight, in a dream: "Whom do you wish to serve, the servant or the master?". And from there began the conversion and the renunciation of goods and of earthly glory of the future saint of Assisi. From Spoleto one walks along the hillside among the olive plantations sheltered by dry-stone walls. One crosses small villages, where the most authentic spirit of the Umbria of villages lies hidden: Poreta, Eggi, Bazzano, Campello. The climb towards Trevi is often under the sun, but shelter can be found at the hermitage of Pissignano, or in the shade of the field oaks. Trevi, city of oil and of the olive, celebrated for its "Sedano Nero", behind the humble facades of its churches and convents preserves a very rich artistic heritage, which numbers works by Lo Spagna and by Perugino. One descends towards the valley, passing the characteristic crossroads, marked by the presence of votive shrines, as if to protect the step of the wayfarer. The entry into Foligno comes along a busy road, but as soon as one reaches the Baroque palaces and the medieval churches of the historic centre the atmosphere of peace and tranquillity that pervades the walk is regained. The plaque set on the side of the Cathedral recalls one of the best-known episodes of the life of the Poverello: on this square, in 1205, Francis sold his father's cloth and his horse, to raise the money needed to restore the little church of San Damiano. If the anticipation of arrival tempts one to press on, the recommendation is to make a stop at Spello, rich in remains from the Roman age and in Renaissance masterpieces. From the Splendida Colonia Iulia it is less than 20 km to Assisi. One may choose whether to take the hiking variant, which crosses the Park of Monte Subasio but is fairly demanding, or to continue along the easy Via degli Olivi. In the first case one reaches the Eremo delle Carceri, a place of absolute spirituality and among those most loved by Francis, who withdrew here in utter silence to meditate; from the olive road one enters the city near the Basilica of Santa Chiara, who was among the first women to share the spiritual adventure of Francis. Those who arrive on foot continue to the goal, which is the tomb of Francis, set in the crypt of the Lower Basilica of Assisi. To enjoy fully the spirit of Assisi, one must stop and give oneself the time to discover the many places bound to the saint (among these are some, little visited, that keep an authentic atmosphere, such as the church of San Damiano), and perhaps go at dawn or at sunset to the very square in front of the basilica.

Useful Tips

For those who do not intend to walk it, the Way of Francis can serve as the outline for a cultural and spiritual itinerary that can also be made by car.

When to go

The best times to walk the Way of Francis are spring and autumn. In August the heat can slow the pace and make the walk more tiring, even though in the evening the temperatures cool down. In winter some Apennine passes may be snow-covered; prudence is advised.

Hospitality

The route crosses the villages of Umbria, where the choice of accommodation is wide and varied (hotels, farm stays, guest rooms, B&B…).
If you wish to discover the various accommodation options in Umbria and along the stages of the Way of Francis, visit the official website of the Umbria Region www.regioneumbria.eu

To meet the specific needs of walkers along the Way of Francis there are also specialised accommodation providers, namely hotels, farm stays and B&Bs, gathered in the Consorzio Umbria & Francesco’s Ways. To learn about the welcome on offer, visit www.umbrialifestyle.it

Information

All the information, the description of the stages and the GPS tracks for both the walking route and the cycling route are available on the website www.viadifrancesco.it

On the iTunes store the "Via di Francesco" app is available, with all the maps, the description of the stages and of the places most closely bound to the life of Saint Francis of Assisi.

Several guides describe the route:

G. Bettin/P. Giulietti, La Via di Francesco, edizioni San Paolo.

A.M. Seracchioli, Di qui passò Francesco, edizioni Terre di Mezzo (it follows a route different from the one indicated by the Umbria Region).

For questions and advice, simply consult the Way of Francis team by email: info@viadifrancesco.it or write on the Facebook page "Via di Francesco"

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The credential and the Testimonium

The credential

Today the credential is issued by a religious authority, which takes responsibility for what it states; it must therefore be used responsibly and correctly. It thus distinguishes the true pilgrim from every other traveller and is needed in order to make use of the "humble" lodgings, reserved for pilgrims, set along the Way. Even at commercial accommodation, the credential in many cases makes it possible to obtain preferential treatment.
It is stamped at the resting places or at the sites one visits, and its presentation in Assisi allows one to receive the Testimonium Viae Francisci, as attestation of the pilgrimage accomplished.
How to obtain the credential?
The credential can be requested from: Basilica Papale di Santa Maria degli Angeli in Porziuncola – Information Office. E-mail: info@porziuncola.org

The Testimonium

The Testimonium Viae Francisci is the religious certificate that proves the pilgrimage accomplished to the tomb of Saint Francis in Assisi.
The issuing of the certificate is bound to precise conditions: to have covered at least the last 75 km on foot and the last 150 km by bicycle, in order to reach the tomb of the saint in Assisi. The stamps and dates placed on one's credential will serve as proof.
The Testimonium Viae Francisci is issued by the religious authorities of Assisi: the Bishop, the custodian of the Sacro Convento and the Guardian of the Convento della Porziuncola. It too is published with the collaboration of the Umbria Region.
How to receive the Testimonium?
Naturally, the Testimonium can be received only in Assisi, the goal of the Way of Francis, and only in person. There are three offices appointed for this, where one may present the credential, be registered and receive the document:

Basilica Papale di San Francesco d'Assisi e Sacro Convento – Information Office
Piazza Inferiore di San Francesco, 2 – 06081 Assisi (PG)
Tel. 075.81.90.01

Basilica Papale di Santa Maria degli Angeli in Porziuncola – Information Office
P.za Porziuncola 1 – 06088 S. Maria degli Angeli (PG)
Tel 075.8051430 – Fax 075.8051418
E-mail info@porziuncola.org

Diocesi di Assisi – Nocera Umbra – Gualdo Tadino – Office of the Episcopal Curia
P.zza Vescovado, 3 – 06081 Assisi (PG)
Tel. 075.81.24.83 – Fax 075.8198805
Email curiadiocesana@assisi.chiesacattolica.it

Gigi Bettin, born in 1975. A law graduate, he works at Sviluppumbria in the area of tourism and integrated promotion. Co-author, together with Monsignor Paolo Giulietti, of the guide La Via di Francesco, ed. San Paolo. He has contributed to several publications on the territory of the Valnerina and of Umbria, and since 2009 he has given his contribution to the promotion and protection of the Way of Francis. (g.bettin@sviluppumbria.it)